Nick Wade

 
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The East London Coffee Disloyalty Card Tour

The best form of advertising is word of mouth.

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It has become increasingly clear from various tweets, photos and blog entries that a friend and former colleague is more than just a little into coffee. Dennis is, in fact, very much into coffee. His learnings and research will hopefully one day result in a very successful business, and it was through him that I first heard of the Disloyalty Card.

A brilliant and simple piece of advertising. Gwilym Davies of Prufrock Coffee is a World Barista Champion who runs a small store on Shoreditch High Street. It's easy to miss, and perhaps deliberately so. This is not a traditional cafe with a big sign on the front. It would seem that Gwilym is keen to encourage a genuine interest in an emerging scene, and his Disloyalty Card does just that in a perfectly twisted way: Drink at 8 other coffee stores and you can claim a free coffee from him. The stores are mainly scattered across East London, and all are (just about) within walking distance of each other. They're listed on a business card, and for each one you visit you receive a stamp as proof of purchase. It's a wonderful tour of some lovely places to drink great coffee, many of which you may never come across otherwise. What better way to be introduced to a scene I knew little of before?

Wednesday. At Profrock I had an espresso and a little chat about what I was embarking on. I collected my Disloyalty Card and wandered off into Shoreditch to begin The Tour.

The first place I visited was Nude Espresso (photos begin here) on Hanbury Street, near The Truman Brewery. I've walked past here many times but never thought to stop. On a cold and rainy day, the friendly smiles were very welcoming. I explain I'm doing The Tour. They are familiar with it. This was to be where I would have my first Flat White.

For any scene it helps to have a bit of eye candy, and the Flat White is definitely this. The barista carefully pours steamed milk over a shot of espresso in small cup, deliberately making a beautiful pattern on the surface of the coffee. This surely takes a lot more skill than a shamrock on a Guinness. But it isn't just about the looks - by carefully using less frothed milk, it mixes nicely with the shot giving a velvety finish and a gentle flavour. It's not big or heavy like a latte. It's a pleasurable drink, and I thought this best to try at each place.

Next was Taylor St Baristas, near Spitalfields. More smiles, more coffee chat, and another lovely Flat White. It's a smaller place, well situated to grab business from the suits of the city. People come and go, but a couple lingers. It's cute. Enough for today. I'm buzzing already.

The following day is just as cold and wet. I picked a terrible week for this. From Liverpool Street I walked to Taste of Bitter Love on Hackney Road. It's another small and friendly place, but with enough space for some to sit. It looks like there's an antique store downstairs. The owner is happy to chat, and we discuss what makes a good coffee with another customer. She's into coffee, and so is he.

Coffee, as I start to understand it, is all about the details. It's a bit like wine. How and where the beans are grown are what give it character. How it is roasted, blended, ground and brewed are what makes it special. There is good and there is bad. A barista is someone who understands this, and endeavours to provide you with something tasty and unique. It requires passion and devotion. The tools of the trade are big old fashioned steam machines, that carefully regulate pressure and squeeze all that is good into a little shot of espresso. There's lots of details in getting it right.

Back into the cold and onto Climpsons & Sons. It's near the top of Broadway Market in Hackney, close to London Fields. I'm feeling guilty for not visiting this part of town for years. The hoodies and angry dogs are easily outnumbered by some ridiculously fashionable people, which somehow make me feel more comfortable. It's a vibrant area well worth exploring. The store is larger and older, and it's very popular. The weather had just eased up enough that I could enjoy my drink outside. Another stamp done.

At this point some planning would have made more sense, as I decided to walk all the way back to Shoreditch before walking all the way up to Dalston to visit Tina We Salute You. This is not a vibrant part of town, or at least the long walk there isn't - which was made worse by more wet and cold - but it is well worth it. It's comfy, relaxed and the hip-hop music makes me want to hang out here. More coffee chat. Even the furthest places are getting extra business thanks to Gwilym. I eventually head back out into the wet and head home. I'm sure I have blisters.

It's Friday. I do have blisters and I'm hoping to finish today. I start late and head to an insanely windy Whitecross Market only to miss the coffee stall also linked with Prufrock. Instead, I head onto Dose Espresso on Long Lane opposite the south side of Smithfields Market. A much smaller place than most, but with just enough space for a few to sit down including me. More coffee chat. These places are a perfect little escape from the rest of the world, and there's often interesting conversation to overhear or join in with. On this occasion I listen - a man tells his friend how he started singing.

Not quite the last place. The Espresso Room on Great Ormond Street. It's not too busy, and the owner is able to take some time to tell me more about The Scene. They all know about the other places, many are friends and are happy to help each other when needed. It all sounds friendly, although I wonder about the competitions. Baristas seem to like competitions. I tell him that there is some buzz being generated online thanks to the Disloyalty Card, but the internet is not something he is overly familiar with. He wonders whether he should pose for the photos, and I wonder if I should be more professional about all of this. I suppose an amateur blogger should aspire to something.

Monday. Last day. Whitecross Market isn't open at the weekend. Pitch 42 is as easily overlooked as Prufrock. There are no signs or branding. I assume from the professional looking equipment that I'm at the right place. A small crowd discusses coffee, and one of the guys making coffee gives tips. They know their stuff. One of the customers even roast their own beans at home - wow! I have a little grinder and a stove top. I'm just a beginner. I get my final stamp, and head back to Shoreditch.

Back at Prufrock, I proudly present my completed card to Jeremy, who has to introduce himself since I almost confuse him with Gwilym. Gwilym is at a competition, but not competing. I let him choose what coffee I get as reward, and it's another delicious Flat White. I get a little tick on my card for completing the tour. It's a nice memento. He asks about the various places I've visited. Baristas may be friendly but they are certainly curious about each other. All of the places have been worth visiting, and I've enjoyed the time and coffee at each of them.

Thanks to all of you. It's been a fun introduction to something I can now say I'm into.

For those of you who took an interest where my photos and thoughts might end up: I never intended this to be a review as such, it was just for fun. But... if I had to pick a best coffee, it would be the last at Prufrock. Free tastes especially good. Honestly though, everywhere was excellent and I hope to visit again soon.

Here's a map of all the places:

View Larger Map

You can collect a disloyalty card from any, and some do loyalty cards too! Go visit them.

Comments (5)

Mar 01, 2010
Kaan Ertürk liked this post.
Mar 01, 2010
dennis tang said...
excellent coverage of the stalls and their coffee. tried a few of them when i was still wondering the streets of london many full moons back but was so amazed with the sudden rush of new exciting places that have since opened, and the excitement brought on by barista champions like Gwilym and James Hoffman. i was especially impressed about the camaraderie between the coffee shops which is not very obvious in the local scene, if there are any at all...keep enjoying that cup Nick, and stay independent :)
Mar 01, 2010
dennis tang liked this post.
Mar 05, 2010
berkano said...
Great article - really craving a flat white now!
Sep 20, 2010
will-37 said...
Hi there,
I'm currently writing my undergraduate dissertation on the Disloyalty card and would love if I could email you a couple of questions about completing it. You're article was very interesting and it's be great to know more.
If you would like to take part, please email me at:
wh.hilliard(at)yahoo.com.
Also, anyone else who may have completed the card - i'd love to hear from you too! Many thanks

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